![]() Years ago coolant was always sold as pure coolant, and you'd have to dilute the fluid yourself with water. One thing to keep in mind with nearly every modern jug of coolant you’ll come across: They’re all pre-diluted. All GM cars use something called Dex-Cool from the factory. Plenty of others like BMW and Volkswagen do the same thing. Many times, the coolant is actually branded for the car you’re going to put it in.įor example, Honda sells its Type 2 Antifreeze/Coolant in all its dealers. They’ll sell the coolant for your specific make and model, and it’s guaranteed to be the correct one. The easiest way to make sure you’re getting the right coolant for the job is to go to your car’s dealership. Finally, HOAT is a derivation of OAT that requires the same time change interval unless otherwise specified. General Motors vehicles use this formula and normally require a change after five years or 50,000 miles. It needs to be changed every two years or 24,000 miles, making it far inferior to newer formulas. There are three main types of coolant that car companies use: Inorganic Additive Technology (IAT), Organic Acid Technology (OAT), and Hybrid Organic Acid Technology (HOAT). It would be convenient if every manufacturer used the same coolant, but they don't. using higher quality components.When it comes time to top off or do a complete system flush you’re going to have to find the right coolant for the job. All Japanese cars were always manufactured to better tolerances/clearances/. I think that Bedard meant to say "imperfectly designed domestic cars not driven frequently". Plus, the cause of a clogged radiator is "lack of maintenance". If the radiator needs this, it is probably thinned out, fragile, inefficient, and needs replacement. I am still trying to figure why people waste money with the "rod-out the core" radiator maintenance. Now, with all the parts supplier competition, there is no point to fixing radiators. Lead solder, that was the stuff that we used to patch leaky radiators with about 15 years ago. Its the old, worn, never changed antifreeze that lost all of its buffering capability that is causing problems also, the coolant that sits for a long time in the car that hasn't run in months/years is causing rot. Whats the difference between the engine o-ring seals, coolant hoses, plastic radiator end tanks, water pump seals, head gasket materials, recovery bottles? Did I miss any non-metal materials that coolant moves through? Dexcool doesn't eat anything. I will entertain any comments/complaints made to the above.Īnd for everyone who says: it works great, my friends use it, never had problems.and other worthless opinions, we can't see what it is doing until something breaks and how do you compare two equal things Thats it! Anyone blaming anything else needs to go back to school. The only causes of water seal failure is lack of maintenance, loose engine bolts(noone mentions that) and overheating(overboost/NOS/timing/fanradiatorpump failure.). I guess that if the ratio additives is correct, then there will be no problems. GM's dexcool is OAT without the silicate additives. Traditional green is mostly silicate/phosphate(free?) additives. Note that the Chrysler/European coolant is a combination of both. Maybe some really old brass/copper/magnesium equipped vehicles will have problems. I haven't seen too many cars with anything but aluminum and iron in them. Switchover is your traditional flush with multiple drain/refills over several weeks in order to remove any residual crap that accumulated over time and to remove the previous type of antifreeze as much as possible.Īll coolants are designed to work with most metals. Bouncing back and forth between the two is no good. It will take several so-called flushes to remove all of the antifreeze. Even the 5/150 antifreeze is only good for about 30k miles. If you don't change your antifreeze yearly or at 15k(whichever first), you will have crud buildup and wear on the cooling system(grand canyon effect). is only caused by the lack of maintenance PERIOD! Flushing radiator will not remove all the antifreeze in the engine.Ĭrud, corrosion, wear. ![]() If you want to toy with other types, there will be no problem if 100% of the old antifreeze/coolant is removed. It was engineered for the green EG which was available at that time. My recommendation is to use what the car came with.
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